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Stihl ms 260 pro repair manual
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Haga un segundo corte desde caída. Clean gas tank and replaced filter and fuel lines.
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Stihl ms 260 Instruction Manual - These people have many problems and they manage to break any chainsaw, no matter how well it is build.
If set too low, the saw will die. If set too high the chain will run. L Low speed adjustment screw — This is the low speed jet. Adjust this screw too rich and the chainsaw will blubber and die at idle speed. Adjust this screw too lean and the engine will starve. The saw will race or surge. An extremely lean adjustment will also cause the engine to die. H High speed adjustment screw — This is the high speed jet. Back them off 1 complete turn counter-clockwise Screw LA — Turn LA Idle Speed screw until the chain stops. Then turn counter-clockwise one quarter of a turn. Fine Tuning — Screw L Erratic idling behavior; poor acceleration — Idle setting too lean; turn low speed adjusting screw L counterclockwise until engine runs and accelerates smoothly. Exhaust smokes at idle speed —Idle speed setting too rich; turn low speed adjusting screw L clockwise until engine speed drops. Then turn screw back one quarter turn and check that engine still accelerates smoothly when you open the throttle. Adjustment of the high speed adjusting screw H not only affects the power output but also the maximum off-load engine speed. If the setting is too lean screw turned too far clockwise , the maximum permissible engine speed will be exceeded. This can cause engine damage, brought about by lack of lubrication and overheating in particular. Corrections to the setting of the high speed adjusting screw may be carried out only if an accurate tachometer is available to check the maximum engine speed of 13,000 rpm with bar and correctly tensioned chain. When the engine is tested at the factory the carburetor is set to obtain a slightly richer mixture to ensure that the cylinder bore and the bearings receive additional lubrication during the break-in period. This setting should be left as it is for the first three tank fillings. Only carry out carburetor adjustments after cleaning the air filter and warming up the engine. If you have no means of checking the maximum engine speed, do not set the high speed adjusting screw H any leaner by turning it clockwise beyond the basic setting Above! This how-to works with a Husqvarna, husky, Jonsered, Poulan, McCulloch, , Homelite, Echo chainsaws as well as a Stihl 009, 009L,011, 011T,012, 017, 018, 018C, 019, 019T, 020, 020AV, 020T, 021, 023, 024, 025, 026, 026 PRO, 028, 029, 034, 036, 036 PRO, 036 QS II, 039, 044, 046M, 066M, 088M, MS170, MS180C, MS191T, MS192T, MS200, MS200T, MS210, MS250, MS260, MS260 PRO, MS270, MS280, MS290, MS310, MS360, MS360 PRO, MS360 QS II, MS361, MS390, MS440, MS460, MS660, MS880, HT100, HT101, HT70, HT75 Sounds like the rings have seized to the cylinder wall, this happens a lot after storage. A little air-borne humidity has gotten into your engines cylinders causing the pistons to seize up. Take out the plug and give it a try, If your lucky your muffler is clogged. Get a good penetrating lubricant and spray it into the cylinder and let it go to work, after several hrs-days try to turn the engine over. Work it at the crank not the pull cord. Found Welch plug in Zama carb had dropped out. It was cemented in and not punched. Tried to cement in with Permatex 2, ran 10 minutes and quit. Plug had fallen out again, cement dissolved in gas. So made and used oblong punch to set Welch plug followed by tiny amount of old bottle of clear nail polish around edge. Saw has been running with good power last two weeks. Gasoline with alcohol dissolves most cements. Have Seal-All from ACE on hand in case have to cement plug again. If you can run an engine on full choke, you definitely have an air leak somewhere, you would have to have the mixture screw bottomed out to run that lean. If those are good check the cylinder bolts are tight too. An old trick to find a vacuum leak is to get it running and spray choke or carb cleaner around it—when the revs go up listen for a change in exhaust note. If no air leak are found the carburetor may have a problem and need to be rebuilt. I rebuilt the walbro carb on my stihl 026, new gaskets, replaced the screen you were talking about. I also used a can of carb and choke cleaner and sprayed it thru all the holes. Even removed the high and low needle valves and sprayed thru them. I re-assembled the carb great video on you-tube. But I also replaced the fuel line and filter. It started on the second pull woooohoooo. Make sure you get the correct fuel line. If yours is an older stihl you may need the straight fuel line, not the one with the pre-bend in it. Also check your fuel tank vent. If it is clogged it wont let the carb pull gas. Also when looking at your carb from the handle make sure the impulse line right side bottom is fully attached to the carb. Now reassemble and seat the L and H screws Clockwise to stop. Now choke and start. Again search youtube for stihl 048 carb rebuild video.. I been in small tools for 20. Mostly partner and large construction equipment as well as small tools. Here the problem, have a Stihl TS 460 on the bench came in not running. Actually looks like someone found it at the bottom of a lake. Anyway, torn it down cleaned it up. Low compression, so replaced piston and jug and rings. Replaced carburetor with new one. Clean gas tank and replaced filter and fuel lines. Problem is I can not get any fuel to pump to the carburetor. Did a pressure test on fuel line and tank no leaks. Did a leak down test on Piston and jug. Also did a pressure test on new carb just to make sure no leaks. So I figure I should have had a leak some where. Still scratching my head. Can any one give me something else to look for or do. Change the fuel line and filter if the fuel line has a pin hole in it, the engine will suck nothing but air. You should be able to find the obstruction that way. Look through the carb and you should see the reed valve. This is a piece of springy metal that covers the hole. Press on it gently to see if it can move towards the crank case. Seat it mixture screw all the way in gently return to position. Pay carefull attention when dis-assembling it so you rebuild it with correct gasket placement. Ebay is a good place to find kits or the walbro website. Also replace needle valve and make sure the spring is centered under the metering arm and the screw is tight that holds down the metering arm. If you still have problems check your fuel tank vent and make sure spark screen in the muffler is clean. Sounds like the needle valve is not closing and opening properly letting fuel run down thru the intake manifold. Really if the saw is brand new Stihl should repair it for you for free…Should be under warrenty.. The exhaust port and spark screen is clean as a whistle. It starts and runs great with smooth accelleration. Adjusting the low end makes no difference in either direction. Would going to a 10 tooth roller and chisel blade help? Would going to a 16 inch blade help? Compression 120 psi, strong pull. Adjusting carb is the problem. Should it just be barely touching to keep engine idling or screwed in further which will speed up chain even further? AND SOME GASKETS THEY GAVE ME A KIT WITH NO INTAKE GASK. ALSO HAD THE WRONG NEEDLE BUT AFTER THE DIAPHRAM IT CRANKED THAT WAS ORG. WHAT WAS CRACKED AND DRIED OUT BUT OW THE NEXT DAY IT JUST WOT GET RITE ANY IFO. Immediately the decompression is off the timing seems to be so advanced that it is impossible to operate. A new electronic ignisian was installed and it made no difference. My mechanic has two others that are similar. Before I went to rebuild it, it started just fine but bogged REALLY bad and acceleration with the chain clutch disengaged no load at all was poor at best with it taking about 5 seconds to get to full speed at all full throttle. Took it in and the local shop found a busted piston. Did I need to put some sort of lube in the crankcase bottom of cylinder? I used 2 stroke oil to lubricate the new bearings, crankshaft, and piston for insertion but not to excess. It fired right up upon reassembly but the problem remains I can get it to stay idle by backing off the idle speed adjustment but afraid to keep messing with the adjustments. Anything I am missing?
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