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Every Lady Her Own Dressmaker: The Scientific Lady Tailor System for Cutting Ladies' Dresses and Coats; No Fitting to Do; Improved and Simplified (Classic Reprint)
by Louis Molpoer
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Excerpt from Every Lady Her Own Dressmaker: The Scientific Lady Tailor System for Cutting Ladies' Dresses and Coats; No Fitting to Do; Improved and Simplified
Baste carefully, that lining and outside are perfectly smooth.
In basting up the waist, pin at the waist and arm lines, and hold long seam next to you. The most troublesome seam in the whole waist is the curved side body seam, which comes next to the back. In basting this seam on one side of the back commence at the waist line and go up as in other seams, holding the outward curved seam toward you. The other side must be pinned at the waist line, and at intervals up the seam, then commence basting at the top, holding the outward curved seam toward you, as on the other side.
In sewing up seams do not have the machine stitch too short, or it will draw.
Nick the seams, so that the waist will spring nicely into the figure, and then press them all open. If you wish to finish with tailor-like neatness, bind the seams with ribbon.
No hook and eye pieces are required, but instead a waist band should be put inside the dress to keep it in place.
All seams must be allowed. One-half inch is enough, except under the arms, where the seams should be somewhat deeper. It is absolutely necessary to use a tracing wheel in order to have your lines perfectly true.
After the dress is well cut, it must be made with great care paying strict attention to the rules.
In cutting velvet, the nap must be run up; in plush like wise in sealskin, down.
In cutting plaid be sure to match the stripes in waist, skirt ind trimming, which can always be done.
If the silesia, drilling, or other material used for lining the waist, is cut crossways it is less apt to stretch. It is economy to use a good quality of material for lining, as a poor lining will wear out sooner than outside goods, and the result will be that the seam will stretch, and the waist lose its shape.
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